NJ Homeowner Resource · Best Crew Construction

NJ Roof Replacement Checklist:
Everything You Need
Before, During, and After

A complete guide for NJ homeowners — from getting quotes to inspecting the final job.

Who This Is For

Before You Sign Anything,
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Getting quotes from multiple contractors Already hired a contractor, want to verify First-time roof replacement Storm damage claim in progress Selling your home soon
Quick Answer

A proper NJ roof replacement includes full tear-off, new underlayment, ice and water shield at eaves and valleys, drip edge, ridge cap, flashing, and clean disposal. Any contractor skipping these steps is cutting corners — and you're the one left with the consequences.

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01
Before You Get Quotes
Do this homework before any contractor sets foot on your property.
Know your current roof age and material
Find the install date if possible (check prior home inspection reports or permits). Knowing whether you have 3-tab or architectural shingles helps you ask smarter questions about replacement options.
Document visible damage from ground level
Take photos on a clear day. Note missing shingles, granule loss in gutters, sagging sections, or moss/algae growth. You don't need to go on the roof — that's the contractor's job.
Check if you have an active insurance claim
If storm damage prompted this, contact your insurer before getting contractor quotes. The adjuster's scope of work will be the baseline for any contractor's proposal. Getting quotes first can complicate the claim process.
Know your HOA requirements (if applicable)
Some NJ HOAs restrict shingle color, brand, or profile. Confirm before selecting materials. HOA violations can require costly re-work at your expense.
Get at least 3 quotes
Don't go with the first contractor you meet. Three quotes lets you identify the mid-market price, spot outliers in either direction, and compare what's actually included in each proposal.
Verify NJ HIC license for each contractor
Ask for the NJ Home Improvement Contractor license number before any appointment. Verify it at nj.gov/dca. Any contractor who can't provide a number is operating illegally in NJ. This is not optional.
Ask if the crew is employed or subcontracted
This one question changes everything about accountability. A subcontracted crew has no employment obligation to the company that sold you the job. If something goes wrong after they leave, the chain of responsibility is murky at best.
02
Questions to Ask Every Contractor
Ask these before signing. A good contractor answers without hesitation.
Are you NJ HIC licensed? (Ask for the number — verify it)
Required by NJ law for any home improvement contract. The number format is: NJ HIC #13VHXXXXXXXX. Verify at nj.gov before the appointment ends.
Will your crew do the work, or will you subcontract?
If the answer is "we use trusted subcontractors," ask who holds the workmanship warranty and what happens if the sub is out of business when you have a leak. There's usually no good answer.
What underlayment will you install?
The answer should be synthetic underlayment (or better), not felt/tar paper. Synthetic underlayment is required in most NJ jurisdictions and is far more durable. Any answer of "standard felt" is a corner being cut.
Will you install ice & water shield at all eaves and valleys?
NJ code requires it. This is the single most important leak-prevention layer on your roof. If a contractor doesn't mention it or says they'll "add it if needed," they don't know what they're doing.
Will you replace the drip edge?
Required by NJ code. Drip edge directs water away from fascia and into gutters. Reusing old drip edge on a new roof is a code violation and a warranty issue.
How do you handle decking repairs if needed?
Damaged decking (soft spots, rot, broken boards) should be replaced as discovered during tear-off. Ask the per-sheet price for OSB replacement upfront so there are no billing surprises mid-job.
What's included in the written warranty?
Expect both a manufacturer's material warranty (on the shingles) and a workmanship warranty from the contractor. Get both in writing before signing. A verbal warranty is worth nothing.
Do you pull permits?
In most NJ municipalities, a permit is required for a full replacement. Your contractor should pull it — not ask you to. Permits trigger inspections that verify proper installation. Skipping permits means skipping verification.
What does cleanup look like?
Expect a dumpster on-site, removal of all old materials, and a magnetic sweep for nails on lawns and driveways. If a contractor says they'll "clean up at the end of the week," that's not acceptable on a one-day job.
03
What Should Be Included in Every NJ Roof Replacement
Every item below should be in the written scope of work. If it's not, ask why.
Full tear-off of existing shingles
Not a re-roof over existing shingles. Full tear-off exposes the deck for inspection, allows proper ice and water shield installation, and is required by NJ code when a roof already has two layers.
Decking inspection and replacement of damaged boards
After tear-off, every sheet of OSB or plywood should be walked and probed. Soft, rotted, or structurally compromised boards must be replaced before any new material is installed.
Ice and water shield at eaves, valleys, and penetrations
A self-adhering waterproof membrane — required by NJ building code. It's the primary defense against ice damming and wind-driven rain. Should extend at least 24 inches inside the exterior wall line at eaves.
Synthetic underlayment (or better)
Installed over the entire deck on top of ice and water shield. Synthetic is more durable than felt, more resistant to UV exposure, and less likely to tear during installation. This is the industry standard in NJ.
New drip edge (required by NJ code)
Metal drip edge at all eaves and rakes. Directs water into gutters and protects fascia from water intrusion. Reusing old drip edge is a code violation. Should be installed under underlayment at eaves, over at rakes.
Flashing replacement (chimney, valleys, pipe boots)
All roof penetrations and transitions need new flashing — not just the shingles around them. Step flashing, counter flashing, valley metal, and pipe boots should all be replaced as part of a full replacement.
New ridge cap ventilation system
Ridge cap shingles should be installed over ridge vent — not just capped with standard shingles. Proper ridge ventilation prevents heat and moisture buildup in the attic, which causes premature shingle failure and ice damming.
Architectural shingles (or better)
3-tab shingles are no longer the standard in NJ. Architectural (dimensional) shingles offer better wind resistance, longer warranties, and a more attractive profile. Any new roof should use architectural or impact-resistant shingles.
Starter strip at eaves and rakes
Pre-cut starter strip (not cut field shingles) should be used at all eaves and rakes. This is the first line of wind uplift resistance. Skipping starter strip is a common corner-cut that voids manufacturer warranties.
Correct nail pattern (4 nails minimum, 6 in high-wind zones)
NJ requires 4 nails per shingle minimum. In coastal or high-wind areas (Monmouth County, for example), 6 nails are required. Nails must be driven into the nailing zone — not too high, not through tabs. Over-driven nails void warranties.
Haul-away and cleanup (including magnetic nail sweep)
All old shingles, felt, and debris should be removed same day. A magnetic sweeper should run across all paved surfaces and grass areas to collect nails. Your driveway and yard should look like no one was there.
04
What to Expect on Installation Day
A typical one-day roof replacement — from first truck to final sweep.
7:00 – 8:00 AM
Crew Arrives · Materials Staged
Dumpster or dump trailer is positioned in the driveway. Shingle bundles, underlayment, and accessories are lifted to the roof. Crew does a pre-job walk to confirm scope and identify any surprises before tear-off begins.
8:00 – 10:00 AM
Full Tear-Off
All existing shingles, underlayment, and accessories are removed down to the deck. Debris is loaded directly into the dumpster as the crew works. Faster, cleaner, and less damaging to landscaping than dumping on tarps.
10:00 – 11:00 AM
Deck Inspection · Ice & Water Shield Applied
Every deck board is inspected. Rotted, soft, or broken sections are replaced before anything goes on top. Ice and water shield is applied to all eaves, valleys, and penetrations while the deck is fully exposed.
11:00 AM – 12:30 PM
Drip Edge · Underlayment Laid
New metal drip edge is installed at eaves first, then synthetic underlayment is rolled across the entire deck, overlapping properly and fastened to prevent wind uplift during installation. Rake drip edge follows.
12:30 – 4:00 PM
Shingles Installed
Starter strip goes down first. Shingles are installed bottom-up in offset courses, nailed at the correct zone with the required nail count. Flashing is set at all penetrations and transitions as the crew works up the slope. Ridge vent goes in last before ridge cap.
4:00 – 5:30 PM
Ridge Cap · Final Cleanup · Magnetic Sweep
Ridge cap shingles are installed over ridge vent. Crew does a final walkthrough of the roof. Dumpster is picked up or materials loaded. Magnetic sweeper runs across all paved and grass surfaces. Job site is returned to original condition.
End of Day
Final Walkthrough with Homeowner
A crew member walks the exterior with the homeowner. Photos of completed work are shared. Warranty documents are provided. Permit inspection is scheduled if applicable. Payment is collected after homeowner is satisfied.
05
After Installation
What to do in the days and weeks after your roof is installed.
Get written warranty documents from contractor + manufacturer
You should receive two warranties: the manufacturer's material warranty (from GAF, Owens Corning, etc.) and the contractor's workmanship warranty. Both should be in writing with specific coverage terms and contact information. Store these with your home records.
Inspect attic for any new leaks after first rain
Go into the attic during or after the first significant rain and check for water intrusion, wet insulation, or staining. A new roof should have zero leaks. If you find any, contact your contractor immediately — do not wait.
Confirm permit was pulled and inspection passed
Ask for the permit number and confirmation that the inspection passed. Your municipality's building department can verify this. A passed inspection confirms proper installation of code-required items including ice and water shield, drip edge, and nail pattern.
Ask for before-and-after photos
A professional crew documents their work. Before photos (deck condition after tear-off, ice and water shield application) and after photos (completed roof) confirm that the scope of work was actually performed as contracted.
Leave a review — it helps the crew
For a no-salesman company, every review is the marketing department. If your crew did good work, an honest Google review takes 2 minutes and directly helps the next homeowner make a better decision. It's the most useful thing you can do.
06
Red Flags: Walk Away From These
Any one of these is enough reason to decline a contractor and keep looking.
Contractor wants full payment upfront
A legitimate contractor does not require full payment before work begins. A deposit (typically 10–30%) is standard. Full payment upfront removes all incentive to complete the job properly — and gives you no recourse if they disappear.
No written contract
NJ law requires a written contract for any home improvement project over $500, signed by both parties. The contract must include scope of work, materials, price, start and completion dates, and warranty terms. A handshake deal is illegal and unenforceable.
"We'll roof over your existing shingles"
A lay-over hides deck damage, prevents proper ice and water shield installation, adds excessive weight to your structure, voids most manufacturer warranties, and almost always fails sooner. In NJ, a home already at two layers cannot legally add another. This is a cost-cutting tactic at your expense.
No mention of ice and water shield
If you ask about ice and water shield and the contractor seems unfamiliar, or says "we put it in if the code requires it," that contractor doesn't know NJ code. Ice and water shield is required at all eaves and valleys statewide. This is not optional.
Can't provide NJ HIC license number
If a contractor says they're licensed but can't give you the number on the spot, they are not licensed. Unlicensed home improvement contractors in NJ cannot enforce a contract, may not carry proper insurance, and leave you with no regulatory recourse if something goes wrong.
Uses subcontractors but won't disclose it
Ask directly. If a contractor deflects ("we use trusted partners," "we have a large network") without clearly stating who will be on your roof and what their employment status is, you don't know who you're actually hiring. Push for a direct answer.
No permit mentioned
If a contractor doesn't bring up permits or tries to talk you out of pulling one ("it takes too long," "it costs extra"), they're avoiding the inspection that verifies their work. Unpermitted roofing can affect your homeowner's insurance, your ability to sell the home, and your ability to make future claims.
Key Takeaways
Verify every contractor's NJ HIC license before the appointment — it takes 30 seconds at nj.gov.
Ask specifically who is doing the work. A crew that's employed by the contractor is not the same as a subcontracted crew hired for the day.
Ice and water shield, drip edge, and full tear-off are not optional in NJ — they are code requirements. Any proposal that omits them is incomplete.
Get everything in writing: scope of work, materials, price, timeline, and both warranties. A verbal agreement means nothing after the crew leaves.
A proper one-day installation ends with a magnetic nail sweep, a walkthrough, and warranty documents in your hand. If none of that happens, follow up before making final payment.
The lowest bid is not always the best value. What's missing from a low quote is what you'll pay for later — usually in the form of a leak the contractor won't cover.
Common Questions

Roof Replacement FAQ

Answers to what NJ homeowners ask most often before replacing a roof.

How long does a roof replacement take in NJ?

Most residential roof replacements in NJ are completed in one day by an experienced crew. Larger homes (3,000+ sq ft), steep pitches, or significant decking damage may require two days. If a contractor tells you it will take a week, they are either understaffed or scheduling in a way that allows workers to come and go at will — not a sign of organized, accountable work.

Do I need a permit for a roof replacement in NJ?

In most NJ municipalities, a permit is required for a full roof replacement. Your contractor should pull the permit — not ask you to. A permit triggers an inspection that verifies proper installation of ice and water shield, drip edge, and nail patterns. A contractor who skips permits is skipping the verification that protects you. Check with your specific municipality, as requirements vary.

What is ice and water shield and is it required in NJ?

Ice and water shield is a self-adhering waterproof membrane applied to the roof deck at the eaves, valleys, and around penetrations before underlayment and shingles. NJ building code requires it at all eaves and valleys. It is the primary defense against ice damming in winter and wind-driven rain during storms. Any contractor who doesn't include it by default is either unaware of code or actively cutting corners.

Should I roof over my existing shingles or do a full tear-off?

Always a full tear-off in NJ. Roofing over existing shingles (called a lay-over) hides the deck condition, prevents proper ice and water shield installation, adds excessive weight to your roof structure, and voids most manufacturer warranties. It almost always fails sooner. NJ code limits roofs to two layers total, and most NJ homes are already at the limit — meaning a lay-over isn't even legal in many cases.

How do I verify a roofing contractor is licensed in NJ?

Ask for the contractor's NJ Home Improvement Contractor (HIC) license number, then verify it at the NJ Division of Consumer Affairs website (nj.gov/dca). The license lookup is free and takes about 30 seconds. If a contractor claims to be licensed but won't give you the number on the spot, they are not licensed. Best Crew's license is NJ HIC #13VH12304900 — verifiable at any time.

What should be included in a roof replacement warranty?

You should receive two warranties: a manufacturer's material warranty (covering the shingles themselves — typically 25 years to lifetime) and a workmanship warranty from the contractor (typically 5–10 years for a certified installer). The workmanship warranty is what matters most for leaks, since most leaks in the first several years are installation errors, not material failures. Both should be in writing with specific coverage terms.

Ready to Get a Real Quote?

Best Crew Construction is a direct-to-crew NJ roofing contractor — no sales rep, no subcontractors. One crew handles your roof from first call to final cleanup. NJ HIC #13VH12304900.

Or call us: (732) 503-8133 · info@TheBestCrewConstruction.com